Maturing / Finishing Commercial Scotch Whisky

topic posted Thu, April 20, 2006 - 11:01 PM by  DrE
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The thread on "where does scotch get its color" triggered this post... not "exactly" a distilling question but close.

I'm interested in using new oak barrels to further mature mediocre single malts that aren't worthy of drinking yet. Can anyone with experience in using either charred or toasted barrels to additionally mature malt whisky help with methods or approaches to "fixing" mediocre drams at home?

I'm thinking about buying a new 1 or 2-gallon charred oak barrel and first aging some inexpensive bourbon for 6 months or so and then using the barrel to age some Springbank 10 yo for starters. Or would I be better off with a toasted barrel instead and season with some port or sherry first instead? I've heard recommendations for both approaches.

Do I need to clean or treat the barrels before using them? I've seen cleaners and other stabilizers recommended before new barrels are used for wine but can find nothing about preparing newly charred / toasted oak barrels for malt whisky.

slainte! DrE
posted by:
DrE
offline DrE
Maine
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  • Re: Maturing / Finishing Commercial Scotch Whisky

    Fri, April 21, 2006 - 10:18 AM
    I'm also very interested in any answers to this.

    from what I've read, it seems like you lose a significant portion of booze to evaporation ("the angel's share"), and I wonder if a new oak barrel might be too "oakey"

    personally, I've had terrific results with opening a bottle of commercial booze, drinking a small amount - 1 or 2 ounces - and sealing it. It seems like the extra/new oxygen really brings out a lot of flavors - vanilla -etc. as the booze oxidizes over the next several years. Every 6 months you taste it. I discovered this because I don't drink that much and I have a big collection - it tends to take me 5 to 10 years to drink a bottle of single malt.

    Has anyone tried putting oak chips, or charred oak into bottles to age them that way?
    • DrE
      DrE
      offline 1
      I wouldn't worry much about evaporation since as I understand it, barrels typically lose between 0.5 - 1.5 percent of the current alcohol content annually depending on the tightness of the cask, the current ABV of the fill, and the conditions the cask is stored in. Assuming a 1 % average loss then if you start with a 46% fill, then after a year the ABV would be at 45.5%. This does argue that you should start with a higher proof charge rather than a normal commercial level bottling of 40%. Not sure how this will work for a much smaller cask but we have a pretty accurate hydrometer calibrated for alcohol content we'll use to track the changes in ABV as part of the "home warehousing" process.

      There are a range of cooperages that sell new barrels on the internet but this is largely aimed at the wine industry instead of for aging spirits - not surprising since it's almost impossible to distill legally at home in the US. For wine applications they often recommend using a product like Barolkleen (www.homebrewit.com/aisle/1140) to strip out excess tannins before you use the barrel. I'm not convinced this is required or even done for aging bourbon (new casks) or subsequently for scotch whisky (refill bourbon casks) since the tannins are a huge component of the desired final product.

      I'm still researching options and procedures but I'm now strongly leaning towards an initial use of a 1-gallon charred barrel, conditioning it for 6 months using a mid-range bourbon (not cheap but also not a bourbon that's already perfect for drinking) and then using it to age a gallon of the original US release of Springbank 10 yo from about 4-5 years ago. I made the mistake of buying a case of these without tasting it and it needs some help - it's drinkable but not transcendental as Springers so often are. The spirit character is fine but it was bottled too young IMO and has that estery green grassy character typical of younger malts.

      We'll sample it as it ages to determine how long to leave it in the cask but the general rule here is that the smaller casks mature MUCH faster than larger casks due to the increased ratio of internal surface area (the contact zone) to the volume of spirit. We also own and have tasted samples of Bruichladdich stored in small (10 gallon?) "blood tubs" at their warehouses on Islay and this spirit is maturing MUCH faster than the fullsize barrels we also own at Bruichladdich as well as a couple of other distilleries. Some folks have already started bottling their Port Charlotte blood tubs at 4 yo but most folks are letting theirs mature for a couple of more years.

      Of course, we'll need to archive incremental samples of both the bourbon conditioning as well as the spirit we fill the bourbon-conditioned casks with and then take comparison samples every few months so we can assess the entire process to determine when we rebottle it. I'm thinking we'll see detectable changes within a couple of months.

      Surprised I haven't found much information on this topic yet... next best thing to owning a distillery IMO! The most promising cask I've found in the US so far is at www.redhillgeneralstore.com/A47524.htm but I'm going to continue researching my options before I pull the trigger and start my home warehousing project in a couple of weeks.

      I'll post more as I move forward and will probably put up a section on my website to collect the procedures and provide photos sometime this summer.

      slainte!
    • DrE
      DrE
      offline 1
      As a followup to your comments re: "bottle aging":

      I also agree that many malts improve markedly once opened and when some headspace in the bottle is provided. The initial US release of the Springbank 10 yo 100 proof bottling is a good example of this. Last July we opened both the current US release and Euro release bottlings of the 10-100 (euro proof system is different and this one is actually 57% ABV) to do a head-to-head evaluation at a whisky tasting party.

      No comparison! Even watered down to the same strength the Euro release was far better than the bottles they were simultaneously sending to the US. The US bottle is still open and about 1/2 full (the Euro bottling didn't last a month) and I tasted it during an online whisky tasting last week and it's remarkably better. However, when compared to the new Euro release 10-100 (the new black label lineup that includes the springer 10, 15 and 10-100 in Europe) the newly opened Euro release was still far better and even better than the last Euro release. This one is peatier than the last version but then again, springer bottlings vary significantly even within the same release sequence so no guarentees they will all be peatier.

      I'm now thinking for the currently available US 10-100s (yes, I have a handful of these in the archives as well - D'oh!) that maybe I should open a bottle, pour off a 120 ml sample and then let it sit of the shelf a year before I expect to drink it...

      Also, don't know anyone who has added oak chips to even age whisky faster or maybe even in the bottle but there's something that seems a little weird about this to me. Functionally it might work just as well but the esoteric, totally obsessive-compulsive approach to adding a few live casks to the drammery is much more appealing to me than going the oak chip route. Seems like "cheating" to me and I've never heard of the scottish distilleries doing this although I have heard of this being done with bourbon or corn whisky.

      Never forget that perception IS reality.

      slainte!
      • Re: Maturing / Finishing Commercial Scotch Whisky

        Tue, February 27, 2007 - 5:58 PM
        A lot of wineries add oak strips to their maturing wine in stainless vats - and i see no problem with getting an older wine cask, ripping it up into 'pencils' and introducing them into a larger bottle, say 5 litres, of spirit. You'd need to test it now and again to check it wasn;t too oaky.. If it was you could blend of course.
        ian
        • DrE,
          I am far from an expert, but if you are trying to mature past the grassy flavor of the young Springbank, I think you might end up disappointed. The grassy flavor comes from the esters captured if you begin collecting alcohol before the first shot has run through the still and stabilized. My memory is hazy, but I think that grassy is in the head and gym socks are in the tail of a run. I might have that backwards.

          Your theory of aging in a virgin cask should work based on what I have read. I actually just got back from Scotland two weeks ago and had the chance to stop in a couple of distilleries during my trip. Most of the distilleries will only use a cask three times because the cask has already had all of its “caramely goodness” leached out by that point. The point of mentioning this is that the Scottish whisky distilleries only use a barrel that has already held bourbon for at least three year, so I would expect that you will see rather dramatic changes in your Springbank. I am presuming that your Springbanks are still at cask strength and that you can store your cask at reasonable temperatures.

          I am very interested to hear about your experiment. It's an inspired idea; best of luck.

          Yours in Service,
          Gabriel
  • There are little tiny barrels made for the boutique small vintner wine industry.

    You can also make your own. Some people use oak chips to impart the oakiness in SST barrels. But you really need a used port, maderia, sherry, or wine barrel for a whiskey. And I believe that you need the right port or wine not any will do. It's got to be the right vintage grape and region.


    Some bourbon makers are using Chardonnay barrels but I think this is out of desperation.

    At any rate if you make your own you need to learn how to hand split the oak. Cutting through the grain to make a stave produces barrels that are not good for anything but storing dry goods and pickled goods. You need the oak split along it's naturally occurring faults and you need white oak and even the land and weather where the oak is grown will impart characteristics to the wood that will be expressed in whatever is stored in it.

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